State Lines: A Visit to Terlingua

At first glance, it may seem like there isn't much to do in this once-abandoned town, but according to the townsfolk, that's one of its biggest draws.

by Shilo Urban

June 8, 2023

4:12 PM

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What do you call a ghost town that has come back to life? Just north of the Rio Grande in far West Texas, Terlingua is an abandoned mining hub that has awakened once again. While there are still more people buried in the cemetery than breathing above ground, this out-there enclave attracts an eccentric breed of desert dwellers with its cowboy-hippie vibe and rugged landscape: artists, nomads, bikers, poets, river guides, outcasts, tourists, and ghosts.

Visitors to Terlingua seem to fall into two camps, describing it either with words like ramshackle and nothing to do — or strangely enchanting and haunting beauty. To be fair, there isn't much to do besides stargazing and seeking out scrap metal sculptures on the roadside. A rusty pirate ship here, a dinosaur there, a windchime made of tractor seats. There is no Starbucks or McDonald's in Terlingua — there's not even a Dairy Queen. It's an off-the-grid hideout at the edge of the world, and for some people, that sounds like pure Texas heaven (you know who you are). Somewhere, a coyote is howling.

Almost 3,000 people lived in Terlingua during its heyday at the turn of the last century. The ground here is a natural source of bright red cinnabar, which Native Americans used to paint pictographs and the Chisos Mining Company turned into valuable liquid mercury. But the ore ran out by the 1940s, and the town was deserted … until a few intrepid souls in the 1960s decided the remote, hardscrabble habitat suited them just fine.

Today, Terlingua is still bestrewn with the miners’ crumbling stone and adobe homes, a few of which have been rebuilt into artful casitas with solar panels and rain catchment systems. The "ghost town" area consists of a simple hillside church, an old one-room jail, Terlingua Trading Company, Starlight Café, and the intriguing Terlingua Cemetery.

With the earliest burial from 1903 and the most recent this year, it's the final resting place for several hundred souls. Makeshift memorials adorn the gravesites, from humble cairns to handmade wooden crosses held together with wire. Some graves are decrepit, unmarked mounds of stacked limestone; others are well-tended grottos with cans of beer and family photographs left in offering. Scattered at odd angles on uneven ground, the tombs whisper the story of Terlingua to the wind: I’m still here.

You can buy a $1 map of the cemetery next door at Terlingua Trading Company, where the scene is very much alive — especially around sunset. Once the mining company's store, its porch is the unofficial town square and BYOB hangout for local musicians, scraggly dogs, and travelers alike. The peaks of the Chisos Mountains in Big Bend National Park glow in the east, and on a clear day, you can see the Sierra del Carmen range 100 miles away in Mexico. Grab a cold beer, find a seat in the shade, and slip into the Terlingua state of mind.

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Savor:

Feast on brisket queso and chicken-fried antelope with Lone Star beer gravy at Starlight Theater, and be sure to ask for 1469 single barrel tequila in your margarita — it's only available here. Featuring live music every night, dinner at the Starlight is on everyone's must-do list. Expect a long wait unless you arrive by 5 p.m. and get on the list for the first seating. Taqueria El Milagro and Chili Pepper Café earn the highest marks for Mexican food, and DB's Rustic Iron BBQ is the go-to spot for tender meats plus daily specials like smoked burgers. For an easy breakfast, try the standby Espresso Y Poco Mas or the boho-industrial Café Venga, a capacious indoor/outdoor space that opened in March 2023.

Shop:

Start at the center of everything: the Terlingua Trading Post, where you can browse a wild selection of books, T-shirts, Texas wines, Mexican glassware, ceramic skulls, and souvenir kitsch. A tiny museum in the back showcases historical photos and artifacts. You’ll find a smattering of small art galleries around town; one of the best is Earth & Fire with its colorful mixed media works, pottery, and jewelry. Galeria Chisos is another top draw with stained glass mosaics and leatherwork — and if you’re into gems and minerals, visit Many Stones in nearby Study Butte (pronounced stoody byoot). Terlingua also hosts a Saturday morning farmers market, where old-timers sell eggs and chard amidst booths with homemade hot sauce and vibrant folk art.

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Enjoy:

With Big Bend National Park to the east and Big Bend Ranch State Park to the west, Terlingua is an excellent jumping-off point for jeep excursions, river trips, mountain biking, and trail rides via horse or donkey. The infamous Terlingua Chili Cook Off arrives in early November, and the lesser-known Terlingua Black-Eyed Pea Off takes place on January 1. Cheer for tiny shaking dogs at the Chihuahua races each March or brave the summer heat for the Viva Big Bend music festival in July. On November 2, locals mark the Day of the Dead by spending the evening with the dearly departed at Terlingua Cemetery. Loved ones place candles on every grave, bring flowers, and circle their lawn chairs to sing and share potlucks. Mournful yet merry, respectful yet upbeat — it's an evocative Terlingua tradition.

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Snooze:

New glamping getaways with A/C, Wi-Fi, and ensuite bathrooms are popping up everywhere, like the bubble cabins at Basecamp Terlingua — complete with hot tubs and panoramic views. Villa Terlingua's eclectic casitas have kiva fireplaces and outdoor futons for stargazing, while the cabins at Camp Elena boast king-sized beds and telescopes. For tried-and-true rustic luxury, the stacked-stone La Posada Milagro Guesthouse perches on a hillside just above town. If you must have all the mod cons, Lajitas Golf Resort & Spa is 15 minutes away (and they have a private airport).

How to Get There:

Drive west out of Fort Worth on Interstate 20 for about 350 miles until you reach Monohans. Turn left onto Texas State Highway 18 S and continue for 50 miles to Fort Stockton. Hop on Interstate 10 W for a couple of miles and then exit onto U.S. Route 67 and drive about 60 miles to Alpine. Head south on Texas State Highway 118, and you’ll reach Terlingua in about 85 miles. Gas stations can be hard to come by (if not impossible) outside of towns. The trip will take 9-10 hours with a few stops.

Shilo Urban is a freelance writer with an incurable case of wanderlust. She loves writing about culture and lives for adventures in Fort Worth and far beyond. Her current obsessions include Tibet, tap dancing, Kant, and mango HI-Chew candy.

June 8, 2023

4:12 PM